| Narciso Rodriguez, like several other designers, has been on a diet this past year. And as he’s slimmed, so have his clothes. The precise silhouette he’s been refining over the past few seasons has shrunk in for spring, hugging the body’s curves like a second, very elegant, skin. The heart of the collection was a dress constructed in sections: a pencil skirt, topped by a tightly defined midriff, sometimes in crisp cotton, sometimes in sheer jersey. There were variations for day, done in black and white, with insets of taupe jersey or bits of bright color that gave the look a distinctly sportif feeling. Rodriguez occasionally threw on a minute jacket or Lilliputian sweater to play with the proportions, but he never strayed far from the center. There were luxe versions for nighttime, done in various kinds of silk and lightened with touches of floaty georgette. Another star of the night was a pink floor-length dress in heavy, creamy kimono silk that had the front row—Kyra Sedgwick, Julianna Margulies, a very pregnant Sarah Jessica Parker—oohing in admiration. In lesser hands, such single-minded devotion could have been monotonous. But Rodriguez is a master of subtle invention, and the collection’s charisma never flagged. | |
Full list of designers:
Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell' Acqua, Alice Roi, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, Badgley Mischka, BCBG MAX AZRIA, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Blass, Blaak, Boudicca, Boyd, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Eley Kishimoto, Elspeth Gibson, Emma Cook, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gai Mattiolo, Gary Graham, Ghost, Gianfranco Ferre, Gibo, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hammish Morrow, House of Jazz, Iceberg, Imitation of Christ, Jeremy Scott, Jessica Ogden, Jill Stuart, John Richmond, Julian MacDonald, Katayone Adeli, Krizia, Lancetti, Laura Biagiotti, Luca Luca, Luella Bartley, M. R. S, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Mariella Burani, Markus Lupfer, Marni, Matthew Williamson, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Miguel Androver, Miu Miu, Moschino, Nanette Lepore, Narciso Rodriguez, Nicola Del Verme, Nicole Farhi, Nicole Miller, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, Peter Som, Philosophy, Pierrot, Prada, Preen, Ralph Lauren, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Ruffo research, Russell Sage, Samsonite Blacklabel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Sportmax, Tommy Hilfiger, TSE, Vera Wang, Versace, Versus, Warren Noronha, Wolford, Zac Posen,
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