| In a move that signaled the beginning of another episode of the ’80s déjà vu fest that has been playing all over London, Naomi Campbell opened Julien Macdonald’s show strutting her remarkably buff stuff in a white, cutout, rhinestone-studded swimsuit. Macdonald loves glamour, gorgeous girls, eye-socking color, vivid prints, high heels and big hair. Sound familiar? Maybe the thought of the upcoming Gianni Versace retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum inspired him. Whatever the source, the designer’s collection seemed a frank homage to those carefree days when supermodels prowled the runways wearing nothing very much to maximum possible effect. Macdonald worked through grommet-studded jersey and leather pieces, strapless, frilly eyelet looks, and many variations on the theme of microscopically short asymmetric dresses (previous incarnations of which have proved a publicity godsend to many grateful London It girls). The designer threw himself into a carnival spirit with multicolored print chiffons topped by outsize headdresses and shoulder pieces made of Caribbean flowers and vegetation—it’s summer, after all. Even if his glammed-up nostalgia isn’t to everyone’s taste, you have to credit Macdonald his relentless determination to show fashion a jolly good time. Katayone Adeli's intimate presentations, staged in her NoLIta store, are the perfect showcase for the designer's gently hip designs. A fan of under- rather than overstatement, Adeli lets trends murmur their way through her collection, rather than being shouted from the rooftops. Her spring show suggested a country girl with glamorous ambitions. Adeli used tight jeans and snug overalls as a base layer over which she put delicate chiffon or jersey minidresses and tops. Her embellishments and styling referenced various decades: the '20s, the '70s (a flying eagle stretched across a white charmeuse top), the '80s (big "boyfriend" jackets over little dresses), but never glaringly so. Adeli also used a distinctive and eclectic palette: ivory, cobalt blue, canary yellow, black and tones of gray, along with the denim pieces. She may not be a verbose designer—the whole show was over in 14 looks—but Adeli's is a voice that carries. | |
Full list of designers:
Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell' Acqua, Alice Roi, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, Badgley Mischka, BCBG MAX AZRIA, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Blass, Blaak, Boudicca, Boyd, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Eley Kishimoto, Elspeth Gibson, Emma Cook, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gai Mattiolo, Gary Graham, Ghost, Gianfranco Ferre, Gibo, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hammish Morrow, House of Jazz, Iceberg, Imitation of Christ, Jeremy Scott, Jessica Ogden, Jill Stuart, John Richmond, Julian MacDonald, Katayone Adeli, Krizia, Lancetti, Laura Biagiotti, Luca Luca, Luella Bartley, M. R. S, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Mariella Burani, Markus Lupfer, Marni, Matthew Williamson, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Miguel Androver, Miu Miu, Moschino, Nanette Lepore, Narciso Rodriguez, Nicola Del Verme, Nicole Farhi, Nicole Miller, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, Peter Som, Philosophy, Pierrot, Prada, Preen, Ralph Lauren, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Ruffo research, Russell Sage, Samsonite Blacklabel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Sportmax, Tommy Hilfiger, TSE, Vera Wang, Versace, Versus, Warren Noronha, Wolford, Zac Posen,
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