| Jill Stuart’s trendy, youthful line is aimed squarely at the hip urban woman who is on first-name terms with the latest denim lines and the coolest DJs. Stuart started as a handbag designer before branching out into clothing, and although her designs may not be breaking new ground, she has a sharp sense of how to put her own spin on the current looks. For spring, that meant a palette of colors that looked as though they’d been softened by time and wear—dusty rose, ivory, blue-gray and pale indigo. Stuart showed some nice takes on the boxy jackets and slim skirts that are in wide distribution this season, and there was a sweet nostalgia to some of the pieces, like a pink quilted satin jacket that looked like it was made from a comforter and a pretty black dress with a paper-bag neckline that would suit a modern Holly Golightly. But many of the styles evoked a more recent era. Oversize sweaters slipping off shoulders, low-riding pleated pants (paging Z. Cavaricci!) and cargo pants that ended in ribbed cuffs—all shown to a soundtrack that included Thomas Dolby and Dexy’s Midnight Runners—made the ’80s come back to life. For Stuart’s hip chick, that’s this year’s moment. | |
Full list of designers: Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell' Acqua, Alice Roi, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, Badgley Mischka, BCBG MAX AZRIA, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Blass, Blaak, Boudicca, Boyd, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Eley Kishimoto, Elspeth Gibson, Emma Cook, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gai Mattiolo, Gary Graham, Ghost, Gianfranco Ferre, Gibo, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hammish Morrow, House of Jazz, Iceberg, Imitation of Christ, Jeremy Scott, Jessica Ogden, Jill Stuart, John Richmond, Julian MacDonald, Katayone Adeli, Krizia, Lancetti, Laura Biagiotti, Luca Luca, Luella Bartley, M. R. S, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Mariella Burani, Markus Lupfer, Marni, Matthew Williamson, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Miguel Androver, Miu Miu, Moschino, Nanette Lepore, Narciso Rodriguez, Nicola Del Verme, Nicole Farhi, Nicole Miller, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, Peter Som, Philosophy, Pierrot, Prada, Preen, Ralph Lauren, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Ruffo research, Russell Sage, Samsonite Blacklabel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Sportmax, Tommy Hilfiger, TSE, Vera Wang, Versace, Versus, Warren Noronha, Wolford, Zac Posen,
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