| Emma Cook’s spring collection, her first official solo catwalk show, played like the ’60s as seen by a child of the ’80s. The 26-year-old designed her presentation around an imaginary woman named Suzistyrene, a character she dreamed up after watching Barbarella and doing some thinking about ’80s sportswear. Suzi, it turns out, has charm and individual style to spare. Cook worked ’60s themes—clear plastic inserts in shift dresses, shiny PVC and patchwork suede—alongside ’80s elements like jersey with shoulder cutouts, and straps and buckles reminiscent of Duran Duran. PVC raincoats with Liberty-style prints and suede overalls and dresses, meanwhile, had more than a whiff of Mary Quant and Jean Muir about them. Cook also referenced Paco Rabanne, via overdresses and neck pieces made of linked plastic circles and butterflies, but without getting heavy-handed or pretentious. All of which made for a lighthearted debut and a welcome breath of fresh air. | |
Full list of designers:
Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell' Acqua, Alice Roi, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, Badgley Mischka, BCBG MAX AZRIA, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Blass, Blaak, Boudicca, Boyd, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Eley Kishimoto, Elspeth Gibson, Emma Cook, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gai Mattiolo, Gary Graham, Ghost, Gianfranco Ferre, Gibo, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hammish Morrow, House of Jazz, Iceberg, Imitation of Christ, Jeremy Scott, Jessica Ogden, Jill Stuart, John Richmond, Julian MacDonald, Katayone Adeli, Krizia, Lancetti, Laura Biagiotti, Luca Luca, Luella Bartley, M. R. S, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Mariella Burani, Markus Lupfer, Marni, Matthew Williamson, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Miguel Androver, Miu Miu, Moschino, Nanette Lepore, Narciso Rodriguez, Nicola Del Verme, Nicole Farhi, Nicole Miller, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, Peter Som, Philosophy, Pierrot, Prada, Preen, Ralph Lauren, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Ruffo research, Russell Sage, Samsonite Blacklabel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Sportmax, Tommy Hilfiger, TSE, Vera Wang, Versace, Versus, Warren Noronha, Wolford, Zac Posen,
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