| Calvin Klein’s collections can have a hypnotic effect. Avoiding bells and whistles, he sends out utterly simple clothes that, through cut, color and drape, lull the watchers—who this season included Sandra Bullock and Gwyneth Paltrow—into a willing state of desire. The designer’s darkly monastic fall collection, with its military overtones, is a thing of the past. Using a palette of teal blue, ivory, taupe, shell pink, white and black, he sent out a spring line that was as gentle as a sea breeze on a summer day. Luxury fabrics—supple viscose, fluid silk charmeuse, crisp linen, buttery glove leather and sheer chiffon—took the tailoring into a new realm and emphasized Klein’s command of understated sex appeal. (This is a designer who can turn a humble basic like a tank top or a knit camisole into a seductive tool, just by placing the neckline precisely so it strokes the model’s collarbone.) A more overt sexiness was also in evidence, via bra tops and corsets paired with severe tailored trousers, skinny low-slung skirts and tight black jersey dresses. The sportswear front was equally well represented, with crisp shirts and shirtdresses, oversize leather jackets with quilted or channel-stitched collars, and a sweeping suede camel trench. Klein ended the show, like a good day at the beach, with a feast of sweets: pretty, pastel dresses detailed with sunbursts of pintucking or bands of ruching, and a generous serving of vanilla-colored silk jersey dresses replete with cascading ruffles. | |
Full list of designers:
Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell' Acqua, Alice Roi, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, Badgley Mischka, BCBG MAX AZRIA, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Blass, Blaak, Boudicca, Boyd, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Eley Kishimoto, Elspeth Gibson, Emma Cook, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gai Mattiolo, Gary Graham, Ghost, Gianfranco Ferre, Gibo, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hammish Morrow, House of Jazz, Iceberg, Imitation of Christ, Jeremy Scott, Jessica Ogden, Jill Stuart, John Richmond, Julian MacDonald, Katayone Adeli, Krizia, Lancetti, Laura Biagiotti, Luca Luca, Luella Bartley, M. R. S, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Mariella Burani, Markus Lupfer, Marni, Matthew Williamson, Max Mara, Michael Kors, Miguel Androver, Miu Miu, Moschino, Nanette Lepore, Narciso Rodriguez, Nicola Del Verme, Nicole Farhi, Nicole Miller, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, Peter Som, Philosophy, Pierrot, Prada, Preen, Ralph Lauren, Richard Tyler, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Ruffo research, Russell Sage, Samsonite Blacklabel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Sportmax, Tommy Hilfiger, TSE, Vera Wang, Versace, Versus, Warren Noronha, Wolford, Zac Posen,
|
Buy
Sell