"Lightness, color, femininity," said Lars Nilsson, summing up a sweet debut collection for Nina Ricci that focused on wispy, weightless daywear. But wasn't Nina Ricci the sophisticated tailor of her day? Didn't she dress ladies of a certain age in classic suits? Nilsson, who proved that he could cut a mean jacket and pants during his tenure at Bill Blass, abandoned tailoring altogether for his summer statement, save a single black wool gabardine jacket worn with knitted shorts. "I was after something more sensual," he explained.
Hence all the super-delicate lingerie slips and bra tops with spider-web lace or tulle inserts that came with Bermuda shorts, flippy skirts, and silk blousons. The colors—lemon, tangerine, almond, mint—were delicious, especially when they sparkled with Lurex thread or were embroidered with transparent beads. And the dresses, from chiffon confections sprinkled with bows to slender jersey tanks, were perfectly in tune with this season's passion for all things pretty.
The purposeful femininity was no doubt intended to stamp the Nina Ricci brand with a strong, and much needed, sense of identity. But the collection overall was too floaty, and more tailoring might have anchored it better. We’ll just have to wait until fall to see how Mr. Nilsson cuts his trousers.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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