Schoolgirlish jokes are to Moschino what knits are to Missoni or psychedelic prints to Pucci: the core of its brand identity. This season the goofing around started with a rusty brown coat masquerading as a door—complete with panels, brass knocker, and house number—worn open over a bikini, with fluorescent over-the-knee stockings and satin wedges. From there the collection played a kind of sophomoric peekaboo with surrealism, referencing Dali (lip prints on silk dresses), Elsa Schiaparelli, and Christian Berard (pink georgette scarf-printed gowns).
For those who still didn’t get it, cotton underwear graffiti’d with slogans like "too haute to handle" (bada-boom) signaled to the general theme of messing about with the icons of Parisian couture. Chanel-inspired jackets had fringes clanking with plastic beads in hard-candy colors; fifties–style strapless tulle evening gowns were encrusted with safety pins or enamel badges to mimic embroidery. Some of the gags were misjudged, like a reprise of punk (not that old chestnut again!) and the use of far too much black to be funny. But there were plenty of pieces that toyed with summer’s trends in a way that won’t make Moschino shoppers feel they’re buying into a complete joke.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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