Sometimes the most inspirational fashion doesn't come as an in-your-face design statement, but as a suggestion—like spotting a girl on the street who really knows how to put herself together. Watching Miu Miu's collection for spring was just like that: a gentle mix of vintage and new, casual and decorative, anchored with the perfect accessories.
Miuccia Prada knows, for instance, exactly how to make one of those vibrant pink sixties cocktail shifts—the sort that come encrusted with jewels at the neck—wearable by throwing on a plain sage-green cardigan, pulling it in with a leather belt, and accessorizing with a pair of cute but grounding suede pumps. Voila, easy.
That kind of eclectic, offhand charm pervaded the entire collection from the little rumpled linen jackets and coats, to the denim shirtdresses and high-waisted pedal pushers, to the fifties dressmaker–style evening frocks. Better still, it was a show of irresistible accessories. In the hair, feathery fifties headbands. On the feet, printed plush-velvet high pumps or flat moccasins. In the hand, soft leather bags with bamboo handles or brilliant orange versions encrusted with beads. It all amounted to an idealized inventory of the lucky finds millions of girls spend their Saturdays seeking out at flea markets. Next season, no need to waste time: It’s all there, ready and waiting at that clever Miuccia's stall.
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Full list of designers: A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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