Miguel Adrover, one-time messiah and part-time pariah of the New York fashion world, returned to the tents with a collection entitled "thesurrealrealworld." Divided into nine sections, the show opened with a face- and body-painted model who walked down a darkened runway to the sound of cicadas and the artificial lightning of a corps of paparazzi. From there, Adrover took his audience on a continent-hopping jaunt, finally returning to his aesthetic roots: tailored prep-school looks and uniforms, daring feats of drapery, and ingenious trompe l'oeil constructions.
Some of the show’s kookier experiments included a UPS man's exit onto the runway (thank you, sponsor), a model whose cape was actually a banner calling for “world peace, please,” and a man who carried the weight of the world on his shoulders (via a Tom Sawyer stick from which hung a cloth globe). Mixed in among these, though, were some moments of genuine euphoria. Adrover used shredded cloth and ribbons of lining tape to make beautiful, African-inspired, plume-like capes and jackets and skirts. There were draped, dress-like jumpsuits; dresses whose back panels tied in front, apron-style; and lots of classic American prep--impeccably tailored suits, coats, and elbow-patched blazers, paired with oxford shirts and khakis and wonderful knits.
Adrover himself took to the runway in what looked like a top, a vest, and two coats, but was in fact all one piece (there was also a female version). The most memorable exit—perfectly illustrating both the designer’s extreme lyricism and his technical expertise—was a dress that was also a ship: long, hand-painted with masts, and with a white sail/train rigged to the back.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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