One of Italy’s oldest ready-to-wear companies, MaxMara made its name in the fifties, mainly as a purveyor of quality coats, and is still motoring on that business today, selling stylish outerwear and tailoring to women all over the world. The challenge faced by the label each season is how to spin a trend around its solid brand franchise, and build it into something that makes a sustained statement as a runway collection.
The core idea for spring was easy enough to spot: soft, washed materials like canvas and leather, made into slouchy-pocketed jackets, trenches, and short, puffy bombers; plus a handful of masculine vests, some floaty, Stevie Nicks–type dresses (a few done in Zandra Rhodes–like prints), and a palette of muted, sanded-down, tea-stained colors. The collection included some of the fine-gauge cropped knits that are emerging as a seasonal essential, and touched on the current feeling for stripes and for lightened-up masculine dressing, featured in a pale blue-and-white seersucker three-piece suit with cropped pants. It was less successful in catching on to another key virtue of modern fashion: the art of the edit. Brevity is the soul of any strong statement, and this one was weakened by too much repetition.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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