"I wanted to take couture elements, like bows and flowers, but do them in a spontaneous, modern, comfortable way," explained Martine Sitbon. Hardly the torturously intellectual talk of a respected French modernist, but then this is Paris, Spring 2004, and designers everywhere are lightening up their acts.
Sitbon was no exception. For a section of clothes made from parachute silk, she raided the colors from the makeup counter—powdery blush, baby blue, a highlight of lime, lipstick magenta. But while the sweatshirts, ruched-sleeved parkas, and ice-skating skirts looked pretty, easy, and undemanding, some of the repetitive dresses did not: Loose cummerbunds bulked up the hips and large silk flowers were plonked on thighs, a little too spontaneously. Will the Sitbon customer really want to wear dresses so sugary sweet they resembled upside-down tulips? Will even her die-hard fans snap up the aprons covered in chiffon blooms?
Fear not, all you Sitbon lovers. Her alternative—a play on masculine/feminine tailoring—gave the collection balance and rescued it from the saccharine realms of cotton-candy couture. Crisp white frock coats, backless waistcoats, and wide cream trousers looked smart, imaginative, and sexy, as did the last few slithery black satin sheaths with twisted velvet straps—just the sort of strong signature pieces that her customers know and love.
| |
Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
|
Buy
Sell