For his secondary line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer habitually—and joyfully—recalls a time and a place most people are glad to forget: the hallways of Public High School U.S.A., circa 1979. Some seasons he re-thinks the clean-cut preppy set, while other times he zeroes in on the social fringe. For Spring 2004 he conjured tough boys and bad girls, the kind who get suspended for smoking and who put together their wardrobes from the army-navy store and the bins at Goodwill.
To a headbanging soundtrack (with the volume turned up to 11), Jacobs sent a torrent of punked-out girls and guys racing down the runway in his trademark, casually assembled collages. The first look included satin hot pants, layered T-shirts, a big canvas ballet bag, a trailing scarf, and a pair of sparkly combat boots. In contrast to the controlled palette and minimal adornment of his main line, Jacobs let loose here, mixing blue, pink, green, orange, black, and gold in a single outfit, and piling on scarves, bags, silkscreen patterns, embroidery, and lots of tiny pins. Under his masterful direction, it all looked cooler than cool. More importantly, his signature combinations included plenty of great pieces for grownups: slouchy cotton twill trousers, pretty floral dresses, skimpy ribbed T-shirts to wear under an artfully beat-up denim or corduroy jacket. But as fertile an inspiration as high school clearly is, wouldn’t it be nice to see what Marc would look like if it grew up and went to college?
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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