The whirlwind of London’s designer hype traditionally starts in grungy East End underground clubs, the kind that get going way after dark and where only the young and brave dare venture. This season, Kim Jones was the name being tossed around by the seasonal cyclone. A menswear designer, it was rumored he had something new to say for women.
New or not, at least he has a fresh reference point: for his first women’s collection, Jones incorporated aspects of nineties youth culture on top of the 1980’s references already in heavy circulation. “Rave festivals—that was when I first started going out,” he said, to explain the striped Peruvian fabrics that were spliced into a fifteen-look collection of cropped jackets, colorful curvy dresses, and ruched leggings that also invoked that other totemic figure of the season, Azzedine Alaïa.
Although all the women’s pieces will be sold under the Kim Jones label, the collaborative-minded Jones didn’t actually design the collection; that was done, quite openly, by his pal Marios Schwab, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate. Jones, meanwhile, concentrated on menswear ideas like making pants out of patched-together handkerchiefs. The whole endeavor has the authentic air of the amateur start-up that doesn’t quite make sense or play by the rules. Partly annoying, partly intriguing; but then again, definitely on the radar for next season.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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