Sure, the current mood may have turned to optimism and femininity—but who’s going to dress all the tomboys out there who will never feel pretty in pink? Hopes were high for Jens Laugesen, a Danish-born designer educated in Paris and at Central Saint Martins. The impressively organized Laugesen has already delivered two on-the-money collections full of pieces that fit nicely into the military/utility tendency.
Sad to say, those who turned up eager to witness a new fashion visionary—or even find a sharp new angle on a well-established subcult—went away nonplussed, if not exasperated. Laugesen works in cut-up, monochromatic T-shirts, sweats, knits, and deconstructed tailoring. But his first look, a loose jacket over leggings in layers of cream and gray and festooned with hanging straps, carried a distinct air of déjà vu. As he progressed into canvas leggings heavily cross-laced at the back, the comparisons with collections shown last season—most obviously, the work of Helmut Lang—were painfully unavoidable.
There may have been some oversized knits and overgrown vests that stood out among the layers, but however well Laugesen is capable of executing individual pieces, he can’t escape the expectations that face every young designer who ventures onto the runway. Next season, Laugesen should work out what he has to say and articulate it in a voice that is his alone.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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