For spring, Jean Paul Gaultier reprised a few of his favorite obsessions—themes he's been toying with since the eighties when he was first dubbed an enfant terrible.
His chief fixation, of course, is the corset. Incredible, really, the mileage he's gotten out of a single garment. More remarkable still is that it continues to thrill and inspire him. But this time around, the effect was more sculptural than Madonna-sexy, with jackets that sucked in the waist and skirts that clutched the behind, all lashed with intricate lacing. It was great to see this masterful couturier use his infinite skills in the ready-to-wear line—although at times, the very structure of these exquisitely crafted pieces seemed a little out of step with a season bent on floaty sweet nothings.
Gaultier got around that conundrum with his saloon girls who sported frothy chiffon dresses beneath their corset casings, or long, languid aprons with their flashy-colored cowgirl boots. There were a few punks too, sans corsets, seemingly tattooed with his trademark body stockings worn beneath wafting parkas. And, as ever, the designer issued his masculine/feminine tailoring. Nobody does an ivory pinstriped suit, or a corset, for that matter, quite like Gaultier.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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