The season is shaping up to be a pretty one, full of floaty dresses, fizzy prints, and eye-popping color. But trust a Belgian—or, in this case, a Belgian-trained, Colombian-born Frenchman—to deliver a more austere approach to spring/summer.
Despite the stark palette of petrol blue, graphite, black, and white, Haider Ackermann’s collection was both light and desirable. His inspiration? "The street," he said simply. "And elegance." For the former, read sporty perforated synthetics cut into skinny racer-back vests and harem pants. And for the latter? That would be any one of his dresses—an effortless, elongated blue sweater, say, or a sinuous gray jersey wrap-over style.
Although Ackermann did veer down a few mean streets with his trickier pieces—softly strapped bondage trousers, tough black leather shorts, and a number of raw-hemmed pencil skirts—he never hit a dead end in a collection that was cool and surprisingly graceful, albeit with a dark soul.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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