With the Carpenters in the air, it was clear before a model set foot on the rustic flagstone runway that this was not going to be one of the disco glitzfests Julien Macdonald habitually throws for his own label in London. Sure enough, the first girl out was wearing a drifty, seventies-era tiered cream cheesecloth tent banded with inserts of macramé and tasseled shoulder straps, followed by a dusty-pink crinkled petticoat dress pulled in with crisscrossed lacing under the bust.
Macdonald tightened up his romantic hippy theme with a section of shrunken washed cotton bellhop jackets and biker leathers sweetened in tan leather and cream canvas, sometimes layered atop long blouses and cropped pants. Other modernizing touches, among all the airy gauze and ombré-dyed silk, were the eye-catching Givenchy bags—outsized shoulder-slung satchels loaded with heavy-duty straps and chunky leather braids, or giant wooden-handled semi-circular bags in squashy skins.
It made for a pretty summer collection that showcased some of Macdonald's talent with knit (loosely crocheted fishing-net cardigans, for example) and included the sort of luxury details French women like when summering around the Mediterranean. The season-to-season continuity of brand image remains a point of confusion, though, as this collection seems poles apart from the strictly constructed homages to Audrey Hepburn that Macdonald has been producing for Givenchy Haute Couture.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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