Derek Lam said that he designed his sophomore collection "with a woman, not an ingénue, in mind," and the names he gave his pieces drove the point home. There were "Sophia" and "Ava" dresses, as well as a "Marilyn" camisole that referenced Ms. Monroe, one of Lam's main inspirations for the season (the other being the film In the Mood for Love). But for all their grown-up sophistication, the clothes were more gamine than sexpot.
The well edited eighteen-piece show featured a carnation print in slipper satin, a linen brocade shot with silver thread, and a vivid palette, worked into pieces like a cerise paper taffeta shell coat and a turquoise silk/cotton faille trench. Satin bra tops paired with Jacquard skirts were worn with heels for real sizzle; if put together with flats it would make for a flirty look. Pretty daytime options like box-pleat skirts and boyfriend sweaters gave way to the understated glamour of strapless evening dresses. Produced in Italy, Lam's collection looks and feels expensive-and totally worth it.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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