Suede pants laminated to the body. Leather jackets that fit like a glove. Hemlines that leave little, if anything, to the imagination. If this is what turns you on, then Costume National designer Ennio Capasa is your man.
The collection wasn't all about steam, though. It takes a confident hand to stitch a web of seams into a pair of skintight blush-pink suede pants without making them look either clumsy or banal. And there was plenty of skill evident in skinny hand-brushed leather jackets and cotton macs, with sheer side panels, that emphasized the designer's beloved hourglass silhouette. Or wispy chiffon tops whose butterfly-shaped sleeves fluttered as the models glided by.
Capasa also served up some surprises with color: Combinations like lemon and powder pink (!), mint and mauve (see the suede accessories), and lilac and pale blue suffused the raunchier pieces with a fresh, upbeat spirit. Which is not to say there wasn't plenty of his trademark noir, spun into curvilinear satin micro dresses, or long evening gowns in—what else?—transparent chiffon. This is fashion that favors the brave.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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