John Galliano didn't go on one of his extensive research trips to come up with the Christian Dior concept for spring; perhaps he just popped across Paris to an exhibition of Marlene Dietrich's clothes that ran this summer. "It was Marlene," explained the designer. "But then I thought, who would she be today? Marianne Faithfull, Janis Joplin, Courtney Love, Patti Smith!"
Marlene was clearly behind his opening series of curvy gunmetal satin suits with a forties air; the fox-fur jackets that swanked through the show; and the beautiful bias-cut dresses, in silver or gold lamé tissue, that starred towards the end. In between, Galliano mixed up her influence with tattoo-print body stockings, suits with pieces of corsets and garters dangling from the skirt and jacket hems, and some hip-hop-influenced silk sportswear. There were enough items in the melee to satisfy the faithful: his signature print chiffon dresses, some ultra-sexy swimsuits, and the new twist on the Dior bag (it comes with a fox stole attached to the strap). But anyone looking for Galliano's next great leap forward will have to wait till next season.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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