"It's about Chanel, but wearing it played down," announced Karl Lagerfeld, just before the Spring show. "Sweet, but not too ladylike." Thus introduced¸ a parade of neat but never uptight soft little pastel-pink checked tweeds, dainty microprinted georgette dresses, guipure lace skirts, and fresh takes on Coco's favorite tricot dressing trotted out happily. The inimitable signature jacket came light as a cardigan and delightfully trimmed with tiny raw-edged chiffon ruffles in place of the classic braided edging. To further underscore the superior abilities of Chanel's workshops, Lagerfeld took the pattern of antique knitted bed covers (a labor-intensive, French-provincial technique called "ouvrage des dames") and had it reproduced in narrow, scallop-edged cardigan coats which he slipped over short dresses. Even the teensy bikinis were done up in crochet.
A cute idea popped up amid all this sweetness: the khaki trench, Chanelized by ridges of tweed inset at the seams. That's no ordinary edging, as Lagerfeld took pains to point out; the tweed was specially woven by the great Parisian couture-craft supplier Lesage. In a world where the word "luxury" has been overused and devalued, Chanel is one house where the standard flies as high as ever. And it is Lagerfeld's nonchalance with these to-die-for details that imbues the clothes with their essence of confident chic.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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