It would be all too easy for the soft-spoken femininity that’s dominating New York’s spring collections to go wrong. A little too much lace, a few too many bows, and poof! sugar has turned to saccharine. In one of the season’s more refreshing collections, Max Azria demonstrated a sure hand with the trend, showing a distinctive, individual take on what’s becoming well-trodden terrain.
Instead of the same Easter-basket pastels, Azria chose an unusual palette featuring a twenties color scheme of deep rosy pink, aquamarine, pale chartreuse, black, and ivory. He added big floral prints reminiscent of Dagobert Peche’s Wiener Werkstätte designs, and balanced retro-looking fabrics like lightweight cotton voile and washed twill with modern nylon and Lycra blends. The silhouettes were clean and easy: A-line dresses that skimmed the body, cropped pants, short jackets with three-quarter sleeves, and thigh-length coats.
Azria delivered charm aplenty particularly via the tiny ruffles that he stacked on the pretty bikini tops and bottoms, scattered on a minidress, and used to line the edges of a camisole neckline or hem a pair of Clamdiggers. Like a good cook with a tricky recipe, the designer knew just when to stop fussing with his fashion.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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