Amazing anatomy: that's what one needs to acquire before even thinking about Balenciaga for spring. Nicholas Ghesquière's hourglass suits are all rump-hugging to-the-knee skirt, cinched torso, and assertive shoulder, with raised seams running over every contour. High-collared, multi-buttoned cadet jackets, in glove-smooth putty leather or pristine cream canvas, come nipped at the waist, or with the shoulders shaped on the curve and doubly emphasized by tiny boleros. "I wanted to contrast structure and fluidity," he said. "Things that give power to femininity."
This sculptured, futuristic/militaristic silhouette marches to a beat not heard since Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana stalked the eighties Paris runways. But there was more: Ghesquière followed his couture-like, neutral tailoring with short, flounced cutaway dresses in vivid colors and flower prints, delicately suspended over neoprene bras. A highly feminine conflation of his previous experiments with patchwork, some of these pieces were collages of powder-pink corsetry and fluted fuchsia chiffon, floating over, say, a lime-green bra. Others, in old-fashioned flower prints, ended in curly ruffles, weighted with zippers in the hems.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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