Seismic shifts seem to be a trend this season, and it’s not a hemline movement. Anne Klein, in the process of changing ownership, named a new designer after Charles Nolan announced he was leaving to campaign for Democratic presidential candidate Governor Howard Dean. His replacement, Michael Smaldone, debuted with a spring collection that added a bit of edge to his predecessor’s aesthetic, without veering off wildly in a new direction.
Smaldone’s theme was urban nymph, and he set the mood by paving his runway with wood chips (not the best surface for high heels, as the models soon discovered). Working with a limited palette white, yellow, black, and khaki, with a few plum-toned accents he kept silhouettes simple, with pencil skirts, tailored jackets cropped above the wrist, and full-cut white shirts tucked into slim pants or shorts.
The designer attached a high leather waistband to a few pants and skirts, used hook and eyes up the back of a skirt, and lavished silver beading in unexpected places on a khaki tunic over cropped pants, and on an A-line skirt paired with a yellow striped shirt. While he may have chosen classic lines, clearly he likes a vivid detail.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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