Alberta Ferretti's slight, pretty collection confirmed her ongoing love affair with chiffon. Although the show opened with a full-skirted frock in cocoa satin smudged with a shadowy green rose print-perfect for a royal garden party in the fifties-Ferretti modernized the quaint vintage look with flat sandals and a tattered wisp of chiffon engirdling the waist.
It was a taste of things to come, as the designer brought on an endless parade of airy nothings in her fetish fabric, made lighter still with the raw, unfinished edges she celebrates. Angelic little dresses were composed of layer upon layer of mousseline, like a mille-feuille pastry; or sweetened with piecrust frills; or embellished with vertical panels that wafted in the breeze from the sun-dappled park beyond the tent's draped curtains. The audience seemed to be experiencing some collective déjà vu, perhaps because many of these dresses so closely evoked the fey frocks with which the designer closed her diffusion Philosophy line earlier this week in Milan.
Although Ferretti's prints-giant tone-on-tone blooms with a hand-painted feel, or marbled effects like the endpapers used by Florentine bookbinders-were some of the subtlest of the spring shows, her palette conformed to the pungent color mix so popular this season. Layerings of cardigans or suede mod coats over diaphanous blouses and skirts produced arresting combinations like carrot and magenta, copper and amethyst, and peridot and cherry; and Ferretti saved the best till last with a dramatic finale of enchanting goddess gowns in ravishing Pre-Raphaelite hues.
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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