"We used paper to research new shapes," said An Vandevorst backstage after the Spring 2004 presentation. "But we liked the effect so much we decided to use it in the show," added her husband and design partner Filip Arickx. And use it they did, opening with a simple brown paper mac followed by a series of increasingly complex concoctions in the same "fabric": a jacket whose sleeves were hoisted up with leather straps, a skirt with layers of jigsaw-puzzle pleats. The experiment was then echoed in more-accessible white cotton.
Super-luxurious materials may not be A.F. Vandevorst's thing, but clever construction certainly is-and that needn't mean stiff and complicated. Witness a pristine white cotton shirtdress, or a pair of super-skinny, zippered pants in the palest suede, or a simple chocolate canvas trench. A chiffon dress printed with plumes was, quite literally, as light as a feather; a pea-green jersey dress was sliced down the back to reveal a flash of bare spine. Even their print, in the form of an arty, abstract paisley looked-heaven forbid!-almost chic.L
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Full list of designers:
A F Vandevorst, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Andrew Gn, Anna Molinari, Anna Sui, Anne Klein, As Four, Badgley Mischka, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Betsey Johnson, Bill Brass, Blaak, Boudicca, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Capucci, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chanel, Chloé, Christian Dior, Clements Ribeiro, Costume National, Daryl K, Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared2, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Fendi, FrostFrench, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Gucci, Haider Ackermann, Hamish Morrow, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jens Laugesen, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Jonathan Saunders, Julien Macdonald, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Kim Jones, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Luca Luca, Luella, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Martin Grant, Martine Sitbon, Matthew Williamson, MaxMara, Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta,
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