There was something deliberately rough-and-ready about the way Junya Watanabe knocked together raw-edged ruffled cotton blouses and peasant dirndls, and hammered on zippers and snaps in place of decoration in his spring collection. "Like the huts in Dover Street Market" was his gnomic explanation. That reference—if it helps—is to the shantytown shacks installed by Watanabe's mentor, Rei Kawakubo, in Comme des Garçons' new London department store.
Though Watanabe might have been aiming at the impression of spontaneous, artistic use of humble materials, there was plenty of complexity—and an eye for current trends—to be found. The deeply encrusted gold zipper necklines and patches of silver snaps on vests and boleros were distant relatives of the widespread Asiatic folk-embroidery tribe. Long, gathered skirts, cream lace, and poet sleeves were perfectly in step with themes that are cropping up all over this season.
What's particularly personal is Watanabe's romanticism, and his persistent use of those dippy frayed edges. Can't hold it against him, though: After all, this is the man who, two winters ago, originated ragged-edged tweed—a trend that went mega, at every possible level, this year. Not surprisingly, then, audiences tend to cling to Watanabe's every thread for novel ideas. Though this collection didn't wield the seismic potential of a few winters ago, it had a charm all its own. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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