In its mission to establish itself as launch pad of young design, London is rolling out the welcome mat for international talent. The first arrival, with a little help from the British Fashion Council, is Garen Demerdjian, the 29-year-old Lebanon-born, Paris-based designer whose Gardem label has been stirring up the independent-boutique crowd for several seasons.
Gardem takes a gentle, feminine approach to post-deconstructionism. Using light layers of brown crinkled silk, washed leather, fine cotton, and gray sweatshirting, Demerdjian creates easy pieces meant for do-it-yourself assemblages. He showed various combinations of pedal pushers, multi-fabric fluted skirts, patchwork dresses, bolero vests, abbreviated biker jackets, and sweet smocked peasant blouses, all with a drifty, cool attitude. That, of course, makes Gardem a member of the Rick Owens/Ann Demeulemeester tribe of rockin' fashion grunge—but, interestingly, without the angst. Demerdjian needs to edit: Half the numbers would have doubled his show's impact. But as a debut, it hit the mark. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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