Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian-Italian twins behind Dsquared, are shamelessly intent on filling the high-octane sex, fun, and vulgarity vacuum that has appeared in Milan lately. They invited their audience to an ersatz house party, where a series of competitively undressed girls got down with a posse of buff guys. Hot tub included, naturally.
The device allowed the twins to sample genres at will, from hot-as-hell denim, to Studio 54 tux pantsuits, to flash-it-all jersey gowns. It's all been done before, many times and in more-sophisticated forms, at Versace, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana. What made this forgivable, though, was the real thought beneath all that pastiche. The Catens have put their mark on enough pieces now to qualify as brand builders. One is their low-riding cropped jean with its signature cut; this season, that appeared in a leather Western-stitched version. Then there are the great sporty jackets, too, like one pieced together from brown cotton drill and lime and black nylon. And occasionally, there's an entirely new twist on a basic. Right on time for the season's Eastern trend, they've grown a gray hoodie into a floor-length Indian caftan. That's genius. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
|
Buy
Sell