Big changes at Bill Blass this season. Gone were the drawn-out presentations and runway antics of the past two seasons, replaced by a briskly paced show whose models strode the catwalk at a businesslike clip. It made looking at the clothes much easier, and there was improvement there, as well—a trimmer silhouette, a little more skin, a lighter hand. But despite the improvement, the collection still hasn't found its soul.
Michael Vollbracht, now in his third season as Blass's creative director, opened with a lacy strapless sundress accented with a brown grosgrain ribbon—not earth-shattering, but certainly pretty. Such dresses were the collection's strength, from a demure white piqué A-line dress to refreshingly sexy bra-topped gowns. To his credit, Vollbracht has made Blass a regular on the red carpet in the past year, and this season's crop of telegenic eveningwear will certainly appeal to all-powerful celebrity stylists. But unless they're done young and tongue in cheek, those blocky wool crepe suits with prim cuffs and collars will come off more prissy than polished. Vollbracht is moving in the right direction, but a dose of unbridled passion would add a welcome edge to the house of Blass. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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