You have to get up very early—or stay up extremely late—to catch a new entry on the London fashion scene these days. Alistair Carr—whose name might (just) have rung a bell with anyone who attended the Central St. Martins master's degree show a couple of years ago—made his official debut at a breakfast presentation in the Royal Academy of Arts. Nice venue—but there was plenty of pre-show grumbling among the valiant ranks of attendees who waited interminably for his act to begin. Why were we here, anyway?
The answer wasn't all that clear even by the time Carr's last outfit—a double-tiered meringue of white and ombré blue tulle with a kind of sport top—had made its exit. His collection had worked its way, puzzlingly, around voluminous techno-fabric blousons, hammerhead studded decoration, pleats, and dresses in which the skirts were suspended from the tops. While many of these novelties have been seen before, Carr did pull off a single merge that had the stamp of genuine innovation: a couple of shiny black nylon wraps with romantic, puffy chiffon inserts bouncing in the hem. That hasn't been seen before, and Carr really may have what it takes, over time. In the meanwhile, though, he needs to learn how to focus a collection on a couple of ideas, and get them across in the quickest way possible. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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