Antwerp must have a pretty great nightlife, if the rock-club-inspired spring collection from Belgian duo An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, collectively known as A.F. Vandevorst, is any representation. They play great music (Nancy Sinatra and Lee Hazlewood's trippy duet "Some Velvet Morning" made the soundtrack); they have modest but effective light shows (here, a curtain of multicolored bulbs); and the crowd is always hip-looking.
It's not the first time that clubbing has worked its influence on the world of A.F. Vandevorst; the duo once memorably turned their runway into a vast mirror ball. This year, the inspiration was at its most obvious in the touches of silver or gold that sparkled amid their mostly monochromatic palette, and their disco-ready glittery boots and strappy wedge sandals. But Vandevorst and Arickx used it in a far subtler way, by drawing on the grunge/rave club cultures of the nineties. Out strode the models, in the usual zigzag formation, wearing zippered hoodies and leggings with ruffled dresses and trenches, or soft, slouchy shirts over tiered skirts with lace-trim petticoats peeking out beneath. All of this was an imaginative lesson in layering clothes in an interesting and effective way. This collection was also a reminder of how, season after season, Vandevorst and Arickx rework their signature pieces to make great fashion. Some of this show's strongest offerings came from the biker jackets and cardigans that fastened with leather saddle straps, and the presence, yet again, of those billowing, masculine trenches. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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