Even before Alessandro Dell'Acqua's spring collection had begun, his audience was suffering from dampened spirits after being plunged, on a sunny morning, into a dark hall to view eveningwear. Since Dell'Acqua's signature is light, flighty dresses and tops, the vaguely twenties-through-sixties cornflower-blue and nude pieces with which he opened had a familiar charm. Fine—but after that, the pressure of expanding the show to fill a long runway led to a distinct lack of focus.
Like every Milanese designer this season, Dell'Acqua felt the pressure to show something Indian influenced. That resulted in a sort of eighteenth century raj theme: short paisley caftan dresses, palm tree- and animal-embroidered silk jackets and microshorts, and, in the pant department, the baleful influence of jodhpurs. It all got even more confusing when the designer sent out a couple of black lace items that nodded emphatically in the direction of Rochas.
No doubt the inherent prettiness of the clothes will be more evident in the surroundings of a boutique. But Dell'Acqua would do himself and his audience a favor if, next season, he edits more ruthlessly—and shows in a less deadly venue. | |
Full list of designers:
A.F. Vandevorst, Akris, Alberta Ferretti, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Alexander McQueen, Alistair Carr, Anna Molinari, As Four, Ashish Gupta, Balenciaga, BCBG Max Azria, Behnaz Sarafpour, Bill Blass, Bottega Veneta, Boudicca, Buddhist Punk, Burberry Prorsum, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, Celine, Chado Ralph Rucci, Chanel, Charles Anastase, Chloé, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Clements Ribeiro, Comme des Garçons, Costume National, D & G, Daryl Kerrigan, Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan, Doo.Ri, Dries Van Noten, Dsquared, Eley Kishimoto, Eleykishimoto Ellesse, Emanuel Ungaro, Emma Cook, Emporio Armani, Etro, Fashion Fringe, Fendi, GARDEM, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Imitation of Christ, J. Mendel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeffrey Chow, Jil Sander, Jill Stuart, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, Kenneth Cole, Lagerfeld Gallery, Lanvin, Miguel Adrover, Missoni, Miu Miu, Monique Lhuillier, Moschino, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Perry Ellis Women, Peter Jensen, Peter Som, Phi, Pollini, Prada, Preen, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Richard Chai, Rick Owens, Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Menichetti, Rochas, Sebastian Pons, Sonia Rykiel, Sophia Kokosalaki, Stella McCartney, Thakoon, Tommy Hilfiger, Tuleh, Undercover, United Bamboo, Véronique Branquinho, Valentino, Vera Wang, Viktor & Rolf, VPL, Wolfgang Joop, Yohji Yamamoto, YSL Rive Gauche,
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